Sustainability
After having a lecture with Emily Chan, Sustainability Editor for Vogue our assignment was to write two sustainability focused articles for Vogue Online. The first article is on the appointment of Gabriela Hurst as Creative Director at Chloé who is renowned for her sustainability efforts within the industry. The second article is on eco-friendly bedding which I believe is the must have for 2021.
Copy for article on the appointment of Gabriela Hurst as Creative Director at Chloé -
Can Gabriela Hurst push Chloé to the forefront of sustainability?
Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s departure from the Paris fashion house after four years as creative director was due to the Pandemic and the unprecedented changes inflicted on the fashion industry. Ramsay-Levi stated, “it is this reflection that makes me consider my future differently”. The Uruguayan, New York based luxury designer Gabriela Hurst was selected as Chloé’s new creative director. Hurst is renowned for her sustainability focus as well as philanthropic efforts. Her desire for authenticity and attention to “care and detail” made her the ideal creative director for Chloé’s CEO Riccardo Bellini. He acknowledged Chloé had strayed from Gaby Aghion’s ethos as an innovator of change and creativity. Chloé was established in 1952 its “mission [was] to liberate women from the rigidity of couture” and has always been a “purpose driven enterprise”. Bellini understood that sustainability must be Chole’s priority in order “to deliver positive contribution to the world”.
Hurst has been at the spearhead of sustainability since launching her brand in 2015. She has always been transparent with her ecological practices. She was the first to produce a totally carbon neutral runway show for her Spring 2019 collection - a goal set to be achieved by 2050 for the fashion industry. Gabriela has pledged that all virgin materials (materials not been previously used in manufacturing) will be eradicated from the brand by 2022. Her goal is to “create a business [for Chloé] that is socially conscious and in balance with our environment”.
Hurst’s transformation for Chloé
B-Crop Certified in 2021
To achieve B-Crop certification a business would need to adhere to the “highest standards” of sustainability. There are currently 3,500 B-Crop certified businesses. If successful, Chloé would be the first luxury brand to join this community. B-Crops will lead a global movement of change, independent to governments.
Human Rights Principles
In January 2021, Chloé joined the WEP of the UN. A set of principles in line with international labour and human rights laws. This would ensure the protection of all workers, irrespective of their gender, race or beliefs.
Sustainability training for all collaborators
Commencing April 2021 training will be available to all collaborators. Teachings will include gender, climate change and the UN Sustainable Development Goals. This training is aimed to be completed by the end of 2021. If executed efficiently this would change the “mindset through everyday practices” a goal stated by the brand in March this year, from the bottom up.
Lower-impact Material
Hurst’s target by 2022 is to produce a line where the collection is made up of at least 55% non-virgin materials and 75% lower impact leather. Hurst’s debut collection in March 2021 achieved this, with 80% of the cashmere yarn being recycled.
Fair Trade and Packaging
Chloé’s March 2021 collection, the first luxury fair-trade line. By 2022, the target is for all products to be 20% fair trade. Also, all packaging is approved by the Forest Stewardship Council, a sustainable forest management scheme. By 2025, Chloé has pledged to reduce all packaging by 25% as well as reducing environmental impacts by 30%.
Copy for article on Eco-friendly bedding -
It is estimated that we spend a staggering 33 years in bed over our lifetime. Yet, when making sustainable conscious purchases, eco-friendly bedding does not instantly spring to mind. A recent report conducted by Garnier found that in the UK alone 73% of consumers wish to be more sustainable in 2021. So, why can’t your sustainability journey begin with bedding? The bedding market is a buoyant trend, estimated at $7.88 billion USD in 2020 and is forecast to increase by 9 per cent per annum until 2028. What is the reason behind this? The pandemic, and the working from home message has encouraged consumers to invest their money in home improvements.
Bedding is typically made from cotton due to its longevity and comfort. However, cotton cultivation makes up “2.3% of the world’s arable land use” according to Condé Nast. In order to produce 1kg of cotton 10,000 litres of water is required, resulting in water scarcity in developing countries, namely, Pakistan. Pest infestation is also rife in the farming of cotton, consequently pesticides have to be used. These pesticides as well as other toxic chemicals contaminate the water supply and result in biodiversity loss. Fortunately, conventional cotton is not our only option when purchasing bedding.
What are our other options for bedding?
Organic cotton
Organic cotton uses significantly less water than the conventional type as well as BCI cotton (Better Cotton Initiative) an NGO established in 2009 to improve the cotton farming industry. Brands such as, Boll and Branch have used 100% organic cotton since 2013. In 2018 alone Boll and Branch have reduced the amount of water in the production of their cotton by 592,923,320 gallons and in turn supported 12,800 Indian farmers out of debt.
Linen
Have you ever considered linen for your bedding? Linen is a natural fibre that requires minimal amounts of irrigation and is far less water polluting than regular cotton production. If this is not convincing enough, linen is hypoallergenic, a natural insulator, and twice as durable as cotton. Linen bedding is exceedingly accessible starting from £79.99 at H&M per set to Fazzini at €425,00.
Hemp
Hemp is one of the oldest agricultural crops, a natural bast fibre from the inner bark - popular for its durability. Not only can all parts of the plant be utilised for textiles it also nourishes the soil it grows in. Hemp is biodegradable, non-toxic and antibacterial. Brands like Delilah Home and The White Company use Hemp as a fabric because it is free from “allergenic, carcinogenic or toxic chemicals” unlike conventional cotton.
Bamboo
Another alternative to conventional cotton is Bamboo. Products derived from bamboo, are typically made in China and gaining popularity globally. Bamboo is cultivated into either bamboo linen or bamboo viscose. However, both bamboo materials rely heavily on chemical use when cultivating. Additionally, bamboo growth is rapid and if not monitored efficiently can be very invasive to surrounding habitats. Panda London, sell 100% sustainable bamboo bedding which is “seriously soft”, vegan and ethically sourced.
